How to choose dining chairs that people want to sit on all evening
A good dining chair disappears under you. A bad one ends dinner early. Height, depth, back, seat and frame: what to check before you buy a set.
The Atrij Journal
Stories on living well in Istria: houses and the people who design them, furniture made to measure, and the land, food and wine around them.
Getting to Istria by car, plane, train and boat: from Munich, Vienna, Ljubljana, Trieste and Venice
Istria sits where Croatia, Slovenia and Italy meet, which gives you more ways in than most visitors realise. Airports, motorways, trains and summer boats, explained.
Buying an old stone house in Istria: what to check before you sign
The romance of a stone house in a hill village is real. So are the questions about ownership, structure, access and permits. Here is what to check, and who to ask, before you commit.
Hotel room furniture that survives thousands of guests
Suitcases, wet swimwear, room service trays and daily cleaning. What makes hotel room furniture last, and how to plan it so repairs are quick and cheap.
Oprtalj and Draguć: two quiet hilltop villages of inland Istria
A Venetian loggia above the Mirna valley, chapels painted with old frescoes and a village so photogenic that film crews keep coming back. Oprtalj and Draguć are inland Istria at its calmest.
The best time to visit Istria (and when to avoid)
June and September are the safe answer, but the right time depends on what you want: the sea, the food, walking or simply peace. An honest guide to choosing your dates.
From moodboard to render: how a villa interior takes shape before the first board is cut
Bring the images you love. Leave with a 3D render of your own rooms, furnished and lit, and approve every piece before anything is made.
Read the story
The lighthouses of Istria: Savudrija, Porer, Sveti Ivan and more
Stone towers on low capes and lonely islets have guided ships along the Istrian coast for two centuries. Here is where to find them, how to see them and what makes each one special.
Looking for something better than the big furniture stores in Istria, at a price that still makes sense
The big furniture chains furnish half the coast. If you want your house to feel like yours, there is another way, and it costs less than most people assume.
Dog-friendly beaches in Istria: a guide to holidays with your dog
Designated dog beaches, quiet stretches of coast, heat, paws and paperwork. How to plan a relaxed seaside holiday in Istria with your dog.
Istrian sweets: fritule, kroštule, pinca and more
The traditional sweets of Istria are simple, festive and closely tied to the calendar. What they are, when they are made and what to drink with them.
Where to stay in Istria: coast or inland, town by town
Rovinj or Poreč? A seaside apartment or a stone house in the hills? How to choose the right base in Istria for the holiday you actually want.
Terrace and garden lighting for long evenings
On the coast, the terrace is where summer evenings happen. How to light it so that it feels warm, works for dinner and still lets you see the stars.
Your guests sleep better at home: why Istrian villas need to raise the standard
Istria's villas are well built. Too often, what is inside them is not. Guests notice, and they no longer accept sleeping worse than they do at home.
Holiday rental furnishing checklist: what to buy, room by room
A complete, practical list for furnishing a holiday apartment or villa in Istria, with notes on what guests notice, what breaks first and where it pays to spend more.
One week in Istria: a day-by-day itinerary for coast, hill towns and Roman Pula
Seven days is the right amount of time for Istria: enough for the coast, the islands and the interior, with room for long lunches and lazy afternoons.
Istria or Dalmatia? How to choose for your Croatian holiday
Green hills and truffles, or islands and Roman palaces? An honest comparison of Croatia's two most popular holiday regions, from travel time and beaches to food, culture and pace.
Hosting an Istrian dinner at your villa: a menu, a table and a plan
A relaxed menu in five courses, what to buy and where, how to set the table outdoors, and a timeline that lets the host sit down too.
The best viewpoints in Istria: where to see the peninsula from above
Hilltop walls, a bell tower above the sea, a fjord-like bay and the highest summit of the peninsula. Ten places in Istria where the view is the reason to go.
Why every build, even a single villa, needs a BIM specialist
Building Information Modelling is no longer just for airports and hospitals. On a house in Istria it can save months, money and a great deal of arguing.
The bathroom in a premium villa: furniture that copes with steam and the season
Steam, splashes and a house shut up all winter. Why bathroom furniture fails first in Istrian villas, and what lasts instead.
Buzet and Roč: Istria's truffle town and its Glagolitic stone village
A hill town that calls itself the City of Truffles, a tiny walled village that guards the memory of the Glagolitic script, and a road of stone monuments between them. A guide to the green north of inland Istria.
Istria in 3 days: a long-weekend itinerary from Rovinj to the hill towns and Pula
Three days is enough to see the three faces of Istria: a Venetian town on the sea, the hilltop villages of the interior and Roman Pula. Here is a route that works.
Designing a wine bar or tasting room: layout, shelving and light
A wine bar sells time as much as wine. How to plan a bar or winery tasting room where bottles are displayed well, guests stay longer and staff can work.
Architects worth knowing in Istria
Choosing an architect is the single decision that shapes everything else. A short guide to how to choose, and a few studios we recommend.
Are there sandy beaches in Istria? Where to find them, and what to expect
The honest answer is: a few, and not quite the kind you might picture. Why Istria is a coast of rock and pebble, where the softer beaches are, and how to plan around it.
Seafood in Istria: what to order and when
From grilled squid and scampi buzara to Lim Bay oysters and brodet with polenta: a practical guide to Adriatic seafood in Istria, with the seasons and the menu words you need.
Pergolas and shade for terraces: materials, design and what works by the sea
A terrace without shade is empty from noon until evening. Vines, timber, steel, sails or louvres: how to choose shade that suits an Istrian house and survives the bura.
What Istria can learn from Mallorca and Tuscany (without copying them)
Spain and Italy set the standard for Mediterranean houses long ago. Istria can reach it, but only by being more Istrian, not less.
The Mediterranean bedroom: calm, cool and well made
A bedroom by the sea has one job above all: to stay cool and quiet when the day outside is hot and bright. Colours, fabrics, light and furniture that help it do that.
Made to measure, not made for millionaires
Custom furniture has a reputation for being expensive. Here is where the money in a piece of furniture actually goes, and why local craft changes the equation.
For investors: how furnishing shapes the nightly rate and the reviews
Furniture is the line in the budget investors cut first. It is also what guests photograph, sit on, sleep in and write about.
Novigrad, Istria: a quiet walled town on the sea
Town walls on the water, a cathedral with a Romanesque crypt, a fishing harbour and the mouth of the Mirna. Novigrad is the calm alternative on Istria's west coast.
Plomin and the east coast of Istria: a guide to the quieter side
A stone village above a narrow green bay, a Glagolitic inscription in a church wall, and a coastal road with the Kvarner islands on the horizon. The east coast is Istria at its wildest.
Made to measure or flat-pack: an honest comparison
Flat-pack furniture is cheap, fast and everywhere. Made-to-measure furniture costs more and takes longer. Here is where each one makes sense, and where it does not.
Upgrading a rental apartment: what guests notice first
Guests decide within minutes whether an apartment feels cared for. Where to spend on a holiday rental upgrade, and where not to.
The best places to watch the sunset in Istria
Istria's west coast faces the setting sun, and its harbour towns were built to look at it. Where to be when the day ends, from Savudrija to Kamenjak.
When can you build in Istria? Construction work and the tourist season
In many coastal towns, noisy building work is restricted in summer. Here is how the season shapes a construction or renovation timeline, and how to plan around it.
Choosing outdoor furniture that lasts by the sea
Salt, sun, the bura and a summer of guests: which frames, woods, weaves, tabletops and cushions survive a coastal terrace, and which give up after one season.
Furnishing a holiday villa that survives the season
Rental villas live hard lives. Twenty different families a summer, wet swimsuits, sun cream and suitcases. Here is how to furnish for that, and still look beautiful in the photographs.
Fuži with truffles: an Istrian recipe for home
How to make fuži, the hand-rolled pasta of Istria, and dress them with butter and black truffle. A step-by-step recipe for four, with realistic quantities.
The kažun: Istria's dry-stone field hut explained
Round, roofed in stone and built without a drop of mortar, the kažun has become the symbol of Istria. What it was for, how it was built, and where to see one.
Medulin travel guide: beaches, the bay and the islands
A shallow, sheltered bay, some of the few sandy beaches in Istria and a scatter of small islands offshore. Medulin is the family-friendly corner of southern Istria, with Pula and Kamenjak close by.
Outdoor kitchen design: how to plan a kitchen for a Mediterranean terrace
In Istria, summer life happens outside. An outdoor kitchen that is well placed and built from the right materials turns a terrace into the heart of the house.
Boškarin, the Istrian ox: from working animal to delicacy
Grey, long-horned and once nearly forgotten, the boškarin pulled Istria's ploughs for centuries. Today it is a symbol of the peninsula and one of its most prized meats.
Fažana: the fishing village facing Brijuni
Colourful houses, fishing boats and sardines on the grill. A small harbour town north of Pula that is far more than the departure point for Brijuni.
Smart home features that make sense in a holiday villa
Not every gadget earns its place in a house you visit a few times a year. The smart features that protect a holiday villa, help guests and save money, and the ones to skip.
Poreč beaches and the islands in front of the town: where to swim
Pine-shaded shores, the Blue and Green Lagoons, and a small island a few minutes across the harbour. A practical guide to swimming in and around Poreč.
The restaurant as an experience: hospitality furniture that survives every night
Chairs dragged across stone, tables wiped a dozen times a service, terraces in salt air. Restaurant furniture has to look good and take a beating.
Materials that live with sea, salt and sun
The Istrian coast is beautiful and unforgiving. Which woods, stones, metals and fabrics age gracefully here, and which give up after two summers.
Plywood kitchen cabinets: why the carcass matters more than the doors
Kitchen showrooms sell doors and worktops. The part that decides how long a kitchen lasts is the box behind them, and in a kitchen it meets water every day.
How an architect and an atelier work together from the first sketch
When the furniture maker joins at design stage, not after handover, built-ins fit, sockets land in the right place and clients sign off with confidence.
How to choose a builder and contractor in Croatia: a practical guide for owners
The builder you choose will shape your house more than any material. Here is how to find, compare and work with a contractor in Croatia, especially if you live abroad.
Dvigrad: the abandoned medieval town near Kanfanar
Walls, towers and the shell of a great church, swallowed by oak woods above a quiet valley. Dvigrad is one of the most atmospheric ruins in Croatia, and one of the easiest to visit.
Istrian stone and oak: an interior language that does not date
Trends come and go every season. In Istria, two materials have quietly outlasted all of them.
Olive oil tasting in Istria: how to visit a producer and taste like a pro
How to arrange a visit to an Istrian olive oil producer, what happens at a tasting, and the simple professional method for judging a good extra virgin oil.
Beach bar and terrace furniture: how to choose pieces for salt, sun and crowds
Sun from morning to sunset, salt in the air, sand everywhere and a full house every evening. Outdoor hospitality furniture has a hard life by the sea.
Hiking in Učka Nature Park: Vojak, Vela Draga and the views
The mountain wall between Istria and the Kvarner Gulf, with the highest point of the peninsula and a stone tower on top. A practical guide to walking on Učka.
Restaurant interior design in Istria: from konoba to fine dining
Stone walls, a terrace by the sea, guests from five countries. How to plan a restaurant interior in Istria that feels local, works for the kitchen and lasts for years.
Vrsar and Funtana: a guide to the coast between Poreč and Lim Bay
A hilltop town above a harbour full of islets, and a small village named after its springs. Vrsar and Funtana are the quieter side of the Poreč riviera, with Lim Bay just to the south.
Built-in wardrobes: design, materials and what it takes to get them right
A built-in wardrobe is the largest piece of furniture most bedrooms will ever hold. How to plan the inside, choose the doors and pick a board that survives coastal humidity.
Buying a house in Istria? A furnishing timeline that actually works
From signing to the first summer evening on the terrace: when to plan, when to order, and what to leave until you have lived there for a while.
Renovating a stone house in Istria: what really drives the cost
Two stone houses of the same size can cost very different sums to renovate. The difference is rarely in the finishes. It is in the walls, the roof, the access and the decisions made in the first month.
Pula beaches: Verudela, Stoja and the coves around the city
Rock ledges under the pines, small pebble bays and clear water a short ride from the Arena. Where to swim in Pula, and how to choose the right spot.
Barban and Žminj: the heart of central Istria
Two quiet hilltop towns in the middle of the peninsula, once on opposite sides of a border. One is famous for a horseback ring race, the other for its late-summer fair.
Istrian wine grapes explained: Malvazija, Teran, Muškat and Refošk
A clear guide to the grapes behind Istrian wine: what each one tastes like, how to read a wine list in a konoba, and what to drink with what.
The dining table: the most important piece in a Mediterranean home
In Istria, life happens around the table. Long lunches, late dinners, homework, wine with the neighbours. It deserves more thought than any other piece in the house.
Diving in Istria: wrecks, reefs and the Baron Gautsch
The northern Adriatic hides one of the best-known wrecks in the Mediterranean, along with rocky reefs full of life. What to expect when you dive in Istria.
Lighting a villa room by room: a practical plan
From the front door to the pool at night: how to layer light in each room of a holiday villa so it feels warm in the evening, works for guests and flatters stone and timber.
Umag and Savudrija: a guide to Istria's northwest corner
A small old town on the water, the oldest working lighthouse on the Adriatic and flat white rocks that catch the sunset. Umag and Savudrija are the first stop in Croatia for many travellers, and worth more than a passing glance.
Venetian Istria: how to read the heritage of the coastal towns
For five centuries the Republic of Venice ruled the Istrian coast. Its lions, loggias, bell towers and Gothic windows still define Rovinj, Poreč, Novigrad and Pula.
Lim Bay (Limski kanal): oysters, cliffs and boat trips
A long, narrow inlet between Vrsar and Rovinj, with wooded slopes, a hermit's cave and some of the most celebrated oysters on the Adriatic.
Renting out your villa in Croatia: categorisation, guests and the practical side
Before the first guest arrives, a holiday villa in Croatia needs approval, a category and a few routines. A plain-English overview of how it works, and who to ask.
Outdoor living: terraces, pergolas and furniture for long evenings
From May to October, the terrace is the real living room of an Istrian house. Design it like one.
Istrian pršut: how it differs from other prosciutto, and how to serve it
No skin, no smoke, just sea salt, herbs and the bura wind. What makes Istria's dry-cured ham distinctive, and how to slice, plate and pair it at home.
Labin and Rabac: a mining town on the hill, a resort by the sea
On Istria's east coast, a colourful hilltop town with a coal-mining past looks down on a bay of pebble beaches. Two very different places, one short road apart.
Designing with Istrian light
The light here is the reason many people fall in love with the region. A house that works with it feels effortless; one that fights it never feels quite right.
Boutique hotel design: what makes an interior memorable
Guests forget the room number but remember the light in the bar, the weight of the door and the view from the bed. Small hotels win on details.
The energy-efficient villa: heat pumps, solar panels and shade
In Istria, an efficient house is as much about keeping summer heat out as winter warmth in. Here is how the main pieces fit together.
Cycling the Parenzana: the old railway route across Istria
A narrow-gauge line that once linked Trieste and Poreč is now a gravel path through tunnels, over viaducts and past hilltop towns. How to ride it.
Inside the atelier: from sketch to your living room
How a made-to-measure piece comes into being, step by step, and why each step matters.
Restoring a stone house: keep the soul, upgrade the comfort
The old stone houses of inland Istria are some of the most beautiful homes in Europe. Restoring one well is a balance between respect and modern life.
Beram and the Dance of Death: Istria's finest medieval frescoes
In a small church in the woods near Pazin, a fifteenth-century painter covered every wall with colour. His Dance of Death is one of the great images of medieval Europe.
Sailing in Istria: marinas, anchorages and the winds to know
Short hops between Venetian harbour towns, quiet anchorages and the open Kvarner to the east. A practical guide to sailing the Istrian coast.
Wild asparagus season in Istria: when, where and how to cook it
Every spring, Istrians head for the hedgerows with a knife and a bag. A guide to the season, the picking and the dishes that follow.
Brijuni National Park: how to visit and what to see
An archipelago off Fažana where Roman villas, Austro-Hungarian hotels, Tito's summer residence and a safari park share the same pine-shaded islands.
How to keep a stone house cool in summer without fighting it
Thick stone walls can keep a house pleasantly cool through an Istrian August, or turn it into a slow oven. The difference is in how you use them.
Guest bedrooms with hotel-level sleep
Your guests will forget the art on the walls. They will remember how they slept. A short guide to bedrooms people do not want to leave.
Hum, "the smallest town in the world", and the Glagolitic Alley
A walled town of a few streets, a copper gate, a mayor chosen by notches on a stick, and a road of stone monuments to an ancient alphabet. Hum in a day.
Murano glass lighting: what it is, how to recognise it and how to live with it
Seven centuries of glassmaking on a small island in the Venetian lagoon, and why a hand-blown chandelier still changes a room in a way nothing else does.
Rugs and textiles for a warm climate: what to choose for a Mediterranean home
Linen that breathes, rugs that can be rolled up for August, cushions that survive salt air. Textiles decide how a house by the sea feels on a hot afternoon.
Villa kitchens built for cooking and for gathering
In a Mediterranean house the kitchen is never just a workroom. It is where the evening starts.
Designing a pool for a holiday villa: position, size, finishes and upkeep
In Istria, the pool is often the heart of a holiday villa. Getting it right is less about size and more about sun, wind, privacy and what happens around the water.
What to do in Istria on a rainy day: 10 good ideas
Caves, Byzantine mosaics, a castle above an abyss, wine cellars and long lunches. How to turn a wet day in Istria into one of the best of the trip.
A slow weekend in Motovun and the Mirna valley
A hilltop town, an oak forest that hides truffles, and an old railway line turned into a path. Inland Istria at walking pace.
What is a konoba, and how to choose a good one in Istria
The word once meant a stone cellar for wine, oil and ham. Today it means a particular kind of meal. How to tell a real konoba from a tourist trap.
Rovinj beaches and the Golden Cape forest park: where to swim
Pine shade, old quarries and clear water a short walk from the old town. A guide to Zlatni rt and the best places to swim around Rovinj.
Roman Istria: the amphitheatre, temples and villas to see
Two thousand years ago Istria was a Roman province of colonies, farms and seaside villas. Much of it is still standing, often in the middle of everyday life.
Pazin: the castle above the abyss that inspired Jules Verne
In the green heart of Istria, a medieval castle stands on the edge of a deep karst gorge. Jules Verne sent his hero over the edge. You can take the path instead.
Understanding Istrian olive oil
Bitter, peppery, green and alive. Why oil from this small peninsula is so highly regarded, and how to choose a good bottle.
Windows and shutters for coastal homes: what to choose by the sea
Salt, sun and the bora are hard on windows. How to choose frames, glass, shutters and fittings for a house on the Istrian coast, and what to ask before you order.
Truffle season in Istria: what to know
Every autumn, the oak forests of inland Istria give up one of the most expensive foods in the world. A short guide for the curious.
How to choose a chandelier: size, hanging height and glass
The rules of thumb for sizing a chandelier, how high to hang it over a table or in a tall room, and how clear, frosted and coloured glass change the light.
Storage ideas for a villa: where everything goes, room by room
Linen, luggage, beach gear, garden cushions and the owner's own things. A villa runs smoothly when every object has a place before the first guest arrives.
What drives the cost of building a villa in Istria
Two villas of the same size can cost very different amounts. Here is where the money really goes, and which decisions move the total most.
Pula beyond the Arena: a resident's guide
Most visitors see the amphitheatre, take a photograph and leave. They miss a layered, lively city with three thousand years of stories.
Grožnjan, the hilltop town of artists and music in Istria
Half-empty after the war, Grožnjan was given to painters and musicians. Today its stone lanes are full of studios, and in summer the whole town plays.
Malvazija, Teran and the wines of Istria
A short introduction to the grapes, the places and the habits that make Istrian wine so distinctive.
Bale and Svetvinčenat: two inland gems near Rovinj and Pula
A hilltop town wrapped around a Venetian castle, and a Renaissance square with a fortress on one side. Two small places that reward a slow afternoon.
Istria with children: beaches, places and days out for families
Rocky coves, Roman ruins, a safari park on an island and caves to explore. How to plan a family holiday in Istria that works for children and parents alike.
Opatija day trip from Istria: villas, parks and the Lungomare
Just across Učka, the old Habsburg resort of Opatija feels like another world: grand hotels, camellia gardens and a seaside promenade made for walking.
A Mediterranean garden with native plants: less water, more character
The plants that already grow wild around Istria are the ones best suited to a villa garden. How to plan one that looks good in August without a sprinkler running all night.
The best beaches in Istria: a coast-by-coast guide
Rock shelves, pebble coves, pine shade and the odd stretch of sand. Where to swim in Istria, from Savudrija in the north to Rabac in the east.
Buying property in Croatia as a foreigner: what to know before you sign
EU or not, buying a house in Istria is very possible. What matters is knowing which checks to make, which professionals to involve and in what order.
Colour palettes from Istria: five schemes taken from the landscape
Red earth, white stone, olive leaves, Venetian facades and the sea at dusk. How to turn the colours of Istria into interiors that feel calm in July and warm in January.
A family-friendly holiday home: how to design a villa that works with children
Wet swimsuits, sandy feet, early mornings and late dinners. A holiday home for families has to be relaxed for children and restful for adults.
Poreč and the Euphrasian Basilica: what to see in the UNESCO town
Sixth-century gold mosaics, a Roman street plan still in use and Venetian Gothic facades, all on one small peninsula. A guide to the old town of Poreč.
Istrian cuisine: the dishes to know, from fuži to fritaja
A plain-spoken guide to what Istrians actually eat: hand-rolled pasta, thick bean soups, wild-herb omelettes, cured ham and the sea in between.
Festivals in Istria: the ones worth planning a trip around
Film under Roman arches, music in a hilltop town, truffles, young wine and village feasts. A guide to the long-running festivals that shape the Istrian year.
Istria month by month: when to go and what you will find
Asparagus in spring, a warm sea in September, truffles and new olive oil in autumn. A season-by-season guide to choosing the best time to visit Istria.
Lime plaster and breathable walls: how to treat an old stone house
Damp patches, flaking paint and a musty smell often start with the wrong plaster. Why old stone walls need lime, and how to get it right.
Vodnjan guide: olive oil, St Blaise and the old town
Between Pula and Rovinj, a quiet stone town surrounded by olive groves, with the tallest bell tower in Istria and a church full of surprises.
Building a house in Croatia: the permit process step by step
From checking the spatial plan to the use permit, here is how building a house in Croatia works in outline, and who does what along the way.
Cape Kamenjak and Premantura: a guide to the wild beaches of southern Istria
At the very tip of the peninsula, white rock, low macchia and dozens of coves. How to visit Kamenjak, where to swim and what to bring.
Mediterranean interior style: a guide without the clichés
Forget anchors, rope and blue-and-white everything. A real Mediterranean interior is built from light, shade, honest materials and a way of living, and Istria has its own version of it.
Small apartment on the coast: how to design it so it feels twice the size
Thick stone walls, small windows and a few square metres to share. A coastal apartment rewards careful planning more than any villa does.
Rovinj travel guide: the old town, St Euphemia, the harbour and beyond
A former island crowned by a Venetian bell tower, a working fishing harbour and a pine forest by the sea. How to see Rovinj well, at any time of year.
Plywood or particleboard: why the material you never see decides how long furniture lasts
Two wardrobes can look identical on the day they arrive. What sits under the finish decides whether one is still standing straight in ten summers.
From moodboard to render: how a villa interior takes shape before the first board is cut
Bring the images you love. Leave with a 3D render of your own rooms, furnished and lit, and approve every piece before anything is made.
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In collaboration with Lampisa
Made in Istria, made for your room
Tables, beds, sofas, kitchens and storage, drawn for your house and built in Istria on a plywood structure, never particleboard. Better than the retail park, without the showroom price.